An introduction to skin acids
Skin acids are everywhere. We see them on the every ingredient list of our favourite skincare products or plastered in bold letters throughout the cosmetic counter promoting active ingredients. There are a plethora of beneficial skin acids that work wonders on our skin, but we don’t always know exactly what they are and what they can do for us. Today we’ll introduce 10 of the most commonly used and powerful skin acids, categorised by their primary concern. It’s important to note that a lot of the skin acids below assist multiple skin types and conditions but have been listed in their most commonly used category.
Exfoliation:
Glycolic Acid
As a versatile AHA (alpha-hydroxy-acid), glycolic acid can improve the appearance of spots, scars and wrinkles while also giving the skin more radiance. Glycolic acid is often recommended by dermatologists to skin acid newbies because it is gentle on the skin and has proven anti-aging properties. In comparison to other commonly used acids, glycolic has the smallest molecules and therefore penetrates the skin the easiest. The properties within glycolic acid stimulate collagen, improving the general tone and exfoliating the outermost dead layer of skin.
Lactic Acid
A great addition to skincare for people with sensitive skin types. Lactic acid exfoliates and softens fine lines and wrinkles but with less irritation in comparison to other acids. The difference between lactic acid and several other exfoliants is that it moisturises while it exfoliates, thus making it a milder version of glycolic acid. As a part of the AHA family, lactic acid is a powerful yet gentle exfoliant for the skin.
Acne-Prone Skin:
Salicylic Acid
With those prone to acne, salicylic is an essential acid to be incorporated into their routine. Salicylic acid penetrates pores to reduce sebum while also removing discolouration and improving skin tone. A type of beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic molecules are larger than glycolic molecules and also possesses anti-inflammatory properties to help dissolve dead skin buildup, unclog pores and reduce their appearance.
Moisture Retention:
Hyaluronic Acid
A go-to for those looking for plumper and more moisturised skin, hyaluronic acid is a superb water-retaining hydrator. It improves the appearance of fine lines while softening and plumping the skin, and doesn’t dissolve dead skin. As a natural carbohydrate and humectant found in the human body, babies are born with a high amount of hyaluronic acid, which decreases as the body ages.
Dullness:
Retinol
Retinol, one of my favourite on this list, boosts the amount of collagen the body makes and plumps the skin. This process reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin tone and improves overall skin colour and vibrance. Retinoids stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which also boasts overall skin quality and appearance.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is an excellent option for those looking to brighten and lighten their skin. The acid comes from grapes which boasts a high acidity but is less irritating to the skin than something like glycolic acid. It works by accelerating cell turnover by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold skin cells together, thus removing dead skin from the surface, which is often a source of dull skin.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is another excellent option for those that suffer from occasional redness and discolouration. Azelaic acid is gentle on the skin and can benefit those with redness, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and acne. It deactivates elements on the skin’s uppermost layers that can lead to visible skin flaws such as dull skin tone, signs of sensitivities, and blemish marks.
Anti-Aging / Antioxidant Promotion:
Ferulic Acid
As an antioxidant, ferulic acid helps protect the skin from free radical damage and the signs of aging. Found in the seeds and cell walls of oranges and apples, ferulic acid works by boosting the benefits from other antioxidants. This helps protect overall skin integrity and reduces sign lines, spots and wrinkles.
L-Ascorbic Acid
L-Ascorbic acid (also known as Vitamin C) is a rejuvenating vitamin ingredient in skincare that plays an integral role in the reduction of photo-damage caused by UVB rays. This process relates directly to anti-aging treatment, promoting skin firmness, boosting skin repair and brightening. This is an excellent option for those too sensitive for acids like retinol.
Oleic acid
Oleic acid is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid found in corn, safflower and sunflower oils. This acid has shown to be a skin restorative and skin-soothing agent that promotes antioxidant activity. It penetrates deeply into the surface of the skin, replenishing lost moisture and stopping additional moisture from evaporating. It also can restore natural oils of the skin without clogging pores.
There we have it, a brief introduction to the vast world of skin acids. My personal favourites are salicylic acid, lactic acid and retinol as I have found them to benefit my skin the most. It is essential to talk to your dermatologist before starting treatment with any of the above to ensure their suitability.
With wellness,
Aleksandar
Photography by Aleksandar Zarić for Welluvia
